Once again, my beloved ‘sea-rhythm’ is interrupted by the stresses of life ashore. Unlike all the other places I have been to, the official duties – for example clearing customs and inspection of the boat – are more stringent here. Of course there are nice things too. On the first day I met some good sailor friends that I had not seen since Panama. I went to watch the big turtles and surfing for the first time. Unfortunately it was more than a one hour walk to and back from the beach but it definitely was worth the effort. Looks like that not only do I have a talent for sailing but also one for surfing (uhum!)… I managed to surf a wave on the first attempt!! It was a mini wave and it was just beginner’s luck of course, for I landed in the water innumerable times in the most idiotic ways thereafter. But I will certainly try it one more time. The Galápagos Islands are wonderful. The water is clear and not cold at all, as everybody had told me. The Island has everything a tropical Island usually has, greenery, palm trees and it is very warm! At the dinghy dockside the seals just lie in front of your feet, and the only way to pass them is simply stepping over them. Then they start making crazy noises and close in on you though. It scared me a little bit the first time, but I wanted to go ashore and I could not avoid them without falling in the water… The anchorage is very bumpy, there is a swell of one meter [three feet] coming from the sea, and when I lie in my bed, it feels like being in the middle of the ocean… I am pushed from one side of my berth to the other end. So, I have to think of a solution for tonight since I woke up all black and blue ( as happens many times while sailing )… And this when I was hoping to sleep in one stretch the whole night through!

Laura